On the replica Speedmasters outfitted with the Sea-Gull ST19, all subdials work with the exception of the 12-hour counter.
This is because the movements used in the fake Speedmasters are either Sea-Gull ST19 or ETA Valjoux 7750, both of whose chronographs don’t fit the case the same way there is no cheap equivalent of the co-axial movement with correct subdial spacing, though the Sea-Gull-outfitted fakes are a tad better than those using the Valjoux. One big telltale sign is that no fake Speedmaster has correct subdial spacing all are too widely spaced, which cuts the 3 and 9 o’clock markers short. ReplyĪfter we published this article, an acquaintance of mine involved in combating fakes messaged me with a bit more in-depth advice, which I share here. So collecting vintage timepieces has become much more demanding and complicated than it was 10 years ago, but if you do your own homework, it can still be fun. Re-lumed hands are not a knockout to buy a nice vintage watch which is otherwise in good condition. Last but not least, certain parts on a watch can easily be replaced (most of the time) such as a bezel. There are many self-proclaimed experts who do not possess 20 or 30 years’ experience, but have just big egos and claim knowledge they do not have on forums and on the internet. There are collectors who know a lot and like to share. Do your own homework, find people who you truly trust and who help you. Greed has been destroying a lot in vintage watch collecting. That part requires a lot of knowledge on your part or to find people who know what you do not know.Īlways buy the seller is good advice, but at a time where prices of vintage watches partly have skyrocketed, even formerly good sellers have become corrupted. In addition, with vintage watches the bigger danger I find in “Franken” pieces, watches made mostly from pieces which comes from the manufacturer, but do not belong together. Big difference to Omega, at least from everything I have seen so far.Īs with most higher value vintage timepieces the largest percentage of the total value of the watch is found in the dial, you have to watch out mostly for the dial. Dials are so excellently made that you need to take the watch completely apart and analyze every letter on the dial, the back of the dial, and then you hopefully realize what is wrong. With vintage Rolex, this is a totally different ball game. Relatively easy to spot so far, you often do not even need a loupe. Unlike vintage Rolex, vintage Omega dials are not as professionally faked. Being a vintage collector and trader for 19 years now, I have not run into really well-made fake Omegas, be they Speedies or Seamasters (where you have to be careful with the Seamasters 300 big triangle etc., Frankenwatches from watchco.).
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